This season's new releases lean into galbanum, roasted sesame and amaretto rather than straightforward sweetness.
Byredo's new Future Memories eau de parfum opens with galbanum, a sharp, earthy resin, alongside blackcurrant and aldehydes, before settling into a base of iris, amber and vanilla, according to Who What Wear.
Chanel's Coco Mademoiselle Crush Absolu keeps the original's amber-floral base but opens with lychee before drying down into a deeper, resinous amber, built on notes of vetiver, grapefruit, rose and jasmine.
Dries Van Noten's Velvet Violet combines powdered violet with toasted sesame absolute and roasted barley, moving into a base of grilled tonka beans and benzoin resin.
Parfums de Marly's Althaïr Exclusif adds a shot of amaretto and orange blossom to the brand's existing bourbon vanilla and cinnamon profile.
Penhaligon's The Manoeuvres of the Baroness pairs orange blossom and Chantilly cream with incense and sandalwood, while M&S's limited-edition Studio Aura Ambrette blends ambrette and sandalwood with Iso E Super, a synthetic musk that beauty director Shannon Lawlor said turns the scent "slightly salty and crisp."